TOO 4NOY
01-01-2009, 06:21 PM
took this from the TT forum, if anyone like me didnt know what it was.
hope this helps
Another perrenial topic - Clay what is it, when do I, how do I?
Simple guide, because it is simple and doing it should hold no fears for you - really!
So, you've washed your car, it's looking clean'ish but what about that slightly gritty feel to the surface of your paint?
Well, it's contamination that's physically bonded or embedded to the paints surface and you need to remove it.
What is this contamination?
The most common forms include tree sap, insect remnants and light road tar. There are others that are more serious; metallic rail dust, debris from traffic brakes and industrial air borne contaminants.
All of it is pretty much unavoidable and we just have to deal with it. If it's left untreated it will cause serious damage to the paint, especially the metallic contaminants.
Alarming stuff then; but there is a remedy available that's hugely effective - the clay bar.
Clay bar? Looks nothing like clay, more akin to a piece of firm plasticene. Easy and SAFE to use on all types of paintwork it will remove all contaminants from the paints surface with very little effort and with absolutely no risk of damaging the paint.
It won't remove scratches, swirls or other paint blemishes; we'll discuss that later.
Once clayed, your paint surface will be free off contaminants, absolutely smooth and provide the best base for any further work you need to do to the paint - polish, wax etc
Before you start, the car must be thoroughly washed and rinsed to remove all loose dirt. Ideally carry out the claying in the shade and when the paintwork is cool to touch.
Break off a piece of clay and knead it to make a pad around 1.5" in diameter and around 1⁄4" thick. Before putting the clay anywhere near the paint you'll need some lubricant - use a double strength mix of shampoo and water and apply it with a trigger spray bottle, this acts as a lubricant and helps to stop the clay sticking to the paint.
Work over the car panel by panel. Thoroughly apply the lubricant to your chosen panel and work the pad, using a LIGHT pressure, in straight lines over the panel. 3 or 4 overlapping passes will usually be sufficient. Repeat the same routine at right angles to your first.
Feel the area with the tips of your fingers,"touch" will be your guide to knowing if the surface is clean.
As you work over the car you'll see the pad getting dirty. Simply stretch and fold the clay to expose a new cleaning surface. When the clay is fully loaded with dirt and a reasonably clean surface cannot e exposed, use a new piece. But don't throw away the dirty piece; it still has uses!
If you drop the pad of clay DON'T use it, bin it! It will pick up grit that will damage the paint.
Work steadily and methodically, the more effort and care you put into claying, the smoother and cleaner the paint surface will be - it will pay dividends later.
Once the cars paint has been cleaned, do the same to the exterior glass and you'll be amazed at how much smoother the glass feels and you'll extend the life of your wiper blades!
By now your pad of clay will be looking pretty grubby and not worth using on the paint again. To get the most from clay and you're serious about keeping your car looking good; clay your wheels.
All those little black, difficult to shift specks of brake dust can be removed fairly easily and your wheels will look so much cleaner.
Now send that piece of clay to the bin, wash, rinse and dry your car ready for polishing and waxing.
Pretty easy wasn't it? If your car has been neglected you may notice that paint might look a little fresher and brighter. It will, for sure, be extremely smooth and you'll have the cleanest surface for applying any polishes and waxes.
How often should you do it?
The answer depends on where you live; are you close to industrial areas or railway lines? Do you use the car in heavy traffic or is it garaged?
Use your fingertips and the sense of touch; if the gritty feel is evident then clay, but don't overdo it
I suggest twice a year; pre and post winter is usually sufficient
Should you do it on a new car?
If you're going to give your new car the best start in life then you have everything to gain and nothing to lose by doing it!
Who's clay?
Few to choose from these days and those who've clayed before will have their favourites.
Meguiars - kit available with detailing spray. The spray is used as a lubricant and it won't work too well with my "soapy water lub" tip. The clay crumbles. Personally don't think it's great value but it is readily available from the likes of Halfords
Sonus Green - see http://www.cleanyourcar.com
A selection of others to choose from as well, just make sure you buy a FINE grade of clay.
Swissvax - make a yellow clay (don't buy any other from them if it's not available)
Best around IMO. Works well with soapy water as lub, you get a large lump that will make 3 or 4 decent sized pads.
No excuses for not doing it now, eh?!
hope this helps
Another perrenial topic - Clay what is it, when do I, how do I?
Simple guide, because it is simple and doing it should hold no fears for you - really!
So, you've washed your car, it's looking clean'ish but what about that slightly gritty feel to the surface of your paint?
Well, it's contamination that's physically bonded or embedded to the paints surface and you need to remove it.
What is this contamination?
The most common forms include tree sap, insect remnants and light road tar. There are others that are more serious; metallic rail dust, debris from traffic brakes and industrial air borne contaminants.
All of it is pretty much unavoidable and we just have to deal with it. If it's left untreated it will cause serious damage to the paint, especially the metallic contaminants.
Alarming stuff then; but there is a remedy available that's hugely effective - the clay bar.
Clay bar? Looks nothing like clay, more akin to a piece of firm plasticene. Easy and SAFE to use on all types of paintwork it will remove all contaminants from the paints surface with very little effort and with absolutely no risk of damaging the paint.
It won't remove scratches, swirls or other paint blemishes; we'll discuss that later.
Once clayed, your paint surface will be free off contaminants, absolutely smooth and provide the best base for any further work you need to do to the paint - polish, wax etc
Before you start, the car must be thoroughly washed and rinsed to remove all loose dirt. Ideally carry out the claying in the shade and when the paintwork is cool to touch.
Break off a piece of clay and knead it to make a pad around 1.5" in diameter and around 1⁄4" thick. Before putting the clay anywhere near the paint you'll need some lubricant - use a double strength mix of shampoo and water and apply it with a trigger spray bottle, this acts as a lubricant and helps to stop the clay sticking to the paint.
Work over the car panel by panel. Thoroughly apply the lubricant to your chosen panel and work the pad, using a LIGHT pressure, in straight lines over the panel. 3 or 4 overlapping passes will usually be sufficient. Repeat the same routine at right angles to your first.
Feel the area with the tips of your fingers,"touch" will be your guide to knowing if the surface is clean.
As you work over the car you'll see the pad getting dirty. Simply stretch and fold the clay to expose a new cleaning surface. When the clay is fully loaded with dirt and a reasonably clean surface cannot e exposed, use a new piece. But don't throw away the dirty piece; it still has uses!
If you drop the pad of clay DON'T use it, bin it! It will pick up grit that will damage the paint.
Work steadily and methodically, the more effort and care you put into claying, the smoother and cleaner the paint surface will be - it will pay dividends later.
Once the cars paint has been cleaned, do the same to the exterior glass and you'll be amazed at how much smoother the glass feels and you'll extend the life of your wiper blades!
By now your pad of clay will be looking pretty grubby and not worth using on the paint again. To get the most from clay and you're serious about keeping your car looking good; clay your wheels.
All those little black, difficult to shift specks of brake dust can be removed fairly easily and your wheels will look so much cleaner.
Now send that piece of clay to the bin, wash, rinse and dry your car ready for polishing and waxing.
Pretty easy wasn't it? If your car has been neglected you may notice that paint might look a little fresher and brighter. It will, for sure, be extremely smooth and you'll have the cleanest surface for applying any polishes and waxes.
How often should you do it?
The answer depends on where you live; are you close to industrial areas or railway lines? Do you use the car in heavy traffic or is it garaged?
Use your fingertips and the sense of touch; if the gritty feel is evident then clay, but don't overdo it
I suggest twice a year; pre and post winter is usually sufficient
Should you do it on a new car?
If you're going to give your new car the best start in life then you have everything to gain and nothing to lose by doing it!
Who's clay?
Few to choose from these days and those who've clayed before will have their favourites.
Meguiars - kit available with detailing spray. The spray is used as a lubricant and it won't work too well with my "soapy water lub" tip. The clay crumbles. Personally don't think it's great value but it is readily available from the likes of Halfords
Sonus Green - see http://www.cleanyourcar.com
A selection of others to choose from as well, just make sure you buy a FINE grade of clay.
Swissvax - make a yellow clay (don't buy any other from them if it's not available)
Best around IMO. Works well with soapy water as lub, you get a large lump that will make 3 or 4 decent sized pads.
No excuses for not doing it now, eh?!